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Wat Mahatat in Nakhon Si Thammarat

Michael Babcock, Sunday, July 3rd, 2011

Thailand is predominantly a Buddhist country and throughout the country there are numerous temples – wat, in Thai. One of my favorite temples is Wat Mahatat in Nakhon Si Thammarat. This temple is considered one of the three most important temples in the south of Thailand, the others being in Chaiya and Yala. A morning visit here is part the itinerary for Kasma’s Kasma’s trips to southern Thailand.

View of Temple

View of chedi

Its full name is Wat Phra Mahatat Woramahawihaan, sometimes abbreviated to Wat Phra Boromathat. It is found a couple kilometers from the town center on Thanon Ratchadamnoen, the long street that runs the length of the town, and is easily reached by songthaew.

This is the biggest temple in the south of Thailand. The most recognizable feature is the nearly 80 meter high chedi (stupa), which is crowned by a spire made of solid gold and weighing several hundred kilograms. The main chedi is surrounded numerous smaller black and white chedis. To the right of the chedi there’s an entrance to a sanctuary. In the middle is a stairway leading up to a platform about half-way up the chedi; this stairway is open only some of the time. The stairway is flanked by demons, apparently guarding the way. At either end of the room there are walls with interesting bas-relief on the walls.

Buddha Statues

Buddha Statues

Off to the left as you head towards the central sanctuary is a wihaan or Buddha image sanctuary. In the shape of a square, it has Buddha images on the outside around the square; there’s also an inner walkway with more Buddha images.

After you’ve visited the temple, be sure to go to the market area at the far end of the temple – they have some interesting southern crafts and snacks.

Rather than spend more time on description, I’ve put together a slide show to show some of the beautiful images found here. Photographs were taken by both myself and Kasma.


Nakhon Si Thammarat – Wat Mahatat Slide Show

Click on “Play” below to begin a slideshow.
Clicking on a slide will take you to the next image.

You must have Javascript enabled to see the images.

View of Temple 1

Here's a view of the chedi, which is above the main sanctuary
and several other buildings housing Buddha images

View of the Temple 2

The chedi is in the right-hand corner in this view from the parking lot

Entrance to Chedi

The door at the end is the entrance to the chedi

Sign Towards Wihaan

Before reaching the entrance to the chedi at the end, turn
at the blue sign to enter the wihaan of Buddha statues

Thai Monks

In 2007 we came across these novice monks leaving the area by the chedi

Buddha Statue in Niche

There are numerous interesting details in the
buildings around the entrance to the chedi

Temple Roof

Don't forget to look up at the details around the roofs of the buildings

Temple Roof

A view of one of the temple roofs, with its golden nagas

Temple Guardian 2

This demon guards the staircase leading up to the chedi

Temple Guardian 1

This demon and dragon guard the other side of the staircase

Temple Bas-relief

In the sala leading up to the chedi there are two
walls with golden bas-relief (to the right, here)

Temple Detail

Here's a detail of the bas-relief

Buddha in Niche

This is the Buddha statue at the end of one side with the bas-relief

Close-up of Buddha Statue

Here's a close-up of the same statue

Temple Bells

When the staircase is open you can go to a walkway around
the chedi, about halfway up - these bells are taken from there

Walkway with Buddha Statues

This is the outer walkway in the wihaan off the entrance to
the chedi - it is lined with Buddha statues

More Walkway

Here's another view of the outer walkway, which has a mysterious, quiet feel to it

Inner Walkway

There's also an inner walkway, also lined with Buddha statues

Temple Gong

At one end of this walkway is this huge gong - if you rub the
center in just the right way it makes a deep, resonant sound

Buddha Statue 1

One of the Buddha statues on the outer walkway

Buddha Head

Cose-up of another Buddha statue in the outer walkway

Temple Feature

This pillar is found at one of the corners of the outer walkway -
it shows the Buddha at the time of his enlightenment

Earth Mother Goddess

Close-up of the statue of the Earth Mother Goddess, witnessing
the Buddha's enlightenment, from the previous image

Temple Painting

Paintings such is this one adorn some pillars in the outer walkway

Buddha Head 2

Close-up of one of the Buddha statues - painted gold and black

Buddha Head 2 Earlier

Here's the same statue in 2004 - before it was painted (see previous slide) -
like everything else, the Buddha statues are in a constant state of change

Buddha Image

Here's one of the Buddha statues found on the inner
walkway, where they often are standing in a red alcove

Buddha Close-up

Close-up of a Buddha in the inner walkway

Buddha Close-up 2

Here's the same statue 4 years earlier - before restoration

Little Demon

Close-up (of a demon) shows some of the detail on the inner walkway alcoves

Buddha from the Back

An outer walkway Buddha photographed from the inner walkway

Elephant

The inner walkway has several of these elephants - the entire inner wall
has been wrapped by orange fabric, the same color worn by the monks

Another Buddha

An outer walkway Buddha in a very different style

Buddha Statues

One last image showing several of the Buddha statues

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Wednesday Photos of Wat Mahatat

Previous Blogs on Nakhon Si Thammarat

  • Krua Nakhon Restaurant
  • Nakhon Si Thammarat Municipal Market
  • Written by Michael Babcock, July 2011

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Temple (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, December 29th, 2010

    Wat Mahatat

    Temple Grounds

    Wat Mahatat Temple grounds

    Here’s a picture of the main chedi (stupa) at Wat Mahatat in Nakhon si Thamarrat, in the South of Thailand. It’s one of my favorite temples in Thailand. As you head toward the chedi, to the left is an entrance to a building with a large number of Buddha statues around a courtyard – well worth a look.

    Here are two pictures of Buddha statues found at this temple:


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.


    Note: This will be our last Wednesday Photo post for awhile. We may start them up again sometime in the spring.

    Temple Detail (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, October 27th, 2010

    Chiang Mai Temple Detail

    Temple Detail

    Temple detail

    This is a photo of an intricate decoration on a temple in Chiang Mai.

    I enjoy the temples of Thailand. From a distance they are often quite gaudy as the outer walls are often covered with ceramic tiles and gold leaf. Whenever I visit a temple I like to pay close attention to what is on the walls. I like this intricate little beast on the outside of a temple in Chiang Mai.


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.

    Earth Mother Goddess, Doi Suthep (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, July 28th, 2010

    Earth Mother Goddess, Doi Suthep

    Earth Mother Goddess

    Earth Mother Goddess Mural at Doi Suthep

    This mural of the Earth Mother Goddess is found at one of my favorite temples in Thailand – Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai (see Doi Suthep Buddha). You may recall the statue of the Earth Mother Goddess, Ubon Ratchathani from last December. This mural is found in one of the temples at Doi Suthep. I’ve related the story of the picture in my previous post: the short version is that as the Earth Mother Goddess bore witness to the Buddha’s enlightenment, she wrung the water from her hair and the flood swept all the illusions (personified by Mara) away.


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.

    Temple Roof (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, January 13th, 2010

    Temple Roof, Nakhon Si Thammarat

    Temple roof

    Temple roof, Nakhon Si Thammarat

    This should be a familiar sight to anyone who’s travelled in Thailand and visited a temple: the edge of the tiled roof, protected by a Naga. I particularly love the colored tiles and molding set off against the very blue sky.


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture  each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.

    Thai New Year

    Kasma Loha-unchit, Wednesday, April 8th, 2009

    Another New Year to Celebrate

    While most Americans have long settled into the new year, there is a group of us Southeast Asians yet to celebrate our traditional New Year. The Hindu-Buddhist cultures of Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Thailand are gearing up for our approaching grand celebrations on April 13, 14 and 15.

    Offerings at a Temple

    Offerings at a Temple

    This is a festive time of year, full of merriment and close family reunions. Young people visit elders, bearing gifts and scented water to anoint their hands in gestures of reverence. In return, they receive blessings and words of wisdom. Families gather and all take part in preparing elaborate offerings of food and flowers to present to monks in the temples in colorful merit-making ceremonies. Sacred Buddha images are brought out from their places in the chapels, ceremonially bathed and paraded among the people.

    (Click on an image to see a larger version.)

    Thais Worshipping

    Thais Worshipping

    In the countryside, the New Year gives young men and women the opportunity to meet and play games together, usually in groups. They sing and dance traditional folk songs and dances. It is a time of courting and jestful playing. Being that this is the hottest time of year, water is thrown about at one another, both to cool off and as symbolic acts of bestowing blessings. It is a day when people dress in their finest, yet laugh and cheer as they get drenched by water coming from all those around them. 

    Sticky Rice Snacks

    Sticky Rice Snacks

    Food stalls crowd temple and fair grounds with an extraordinary array of snack foods and sweetmeats to tempt every palate, while at home, extended families cook together exquisite feasts of seemingly endless courses. Special new year foods vary from region to region and country to country. In the heart of Thailand scorched by heat, a traditional food consists of a special rice, pounded and winnowed seven times before it is cooked, after which it is sifted into cold water, strained through seven layers of thin cloth, and finally soaked in cold water in an incensed earthenware pot and sprinkled with jasmine flowers. The scented rice is served with an assortment of dainty side dishes and condiments. 

    Sticky Rice with Mango

    Sticky Rice with Mango

    For most cultures, the New Year would not be complete without its luxuriant spread of delectable sweetmeats. Some are delicately wrapped in banana, bamboo and pandan leaves in packages of varying shapes and sizes. A log-shaped bundle holds sticky rice stuffed with banana and a few grains of black beans, while a miniature bamboo leaf-wrapped pyramid hides a gooey rice confection, and so on and so forth. 

    For me, all the abundance the New Year brings does not overshadow the glory of the hot season’s favorite treat – luscious ripe mangoes served with creamy coconut-flavored sticky rice (also called sweet rice or glutinous rice). Though eaten throughout the mango season from March through May, the golden color, sweetness and fragrance of the heavenly fruits are hard to beat as symbols of prosperity, especially when paired with the rich taste of the rice, a grain that reflects the fertility of the land. Furthermore, it is easy to make and the ingredients readily available from Asian markets in the Bay Area.


    Coconut-Flavored Sweet Rice with Mangoes Recipe

    (Our website has a slightly different version of this recipe. Our recipe index contains many more dessert recipes, including one for Black Sticky Rice Pudding.)

    • 2 cups long-grain white sweet rice or glutinous rice
    • 2 cups, or 1 can, unsweetened creamy coconut milk*
    • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
    • 1 tsp. sea salt
    • 1-2 ripe mangoes, peeled and sliced

    Rinse the rice, then cover with tap water 2-3 inches above the rice line and soakfour hours, or overnight. The rice will absorb much of the water, grow in size and soften, such that the grains easily break apart if pressed between the fingers.

    Drain and spread grains loosely in a shallow heat-proof dish. Place on a steamer rack and steam dry (without water added to the rice) over a pot with at least two inches of water on the bottom. Steam over medium heat for half an hour, or until the grains are translucent, cooked through but chewy. Or you can use a stacked steamer.

    Sticky Rice Steaming Basket

    Cooking Apparatus for Sticky Rice

    If you are making a large quantity, in order to cook the grains evenly, use the special woven bamboo, cone-shaped basket for steaming glutinous rice, which fits on the companion spitoon-shaped pot with a collar to hold the basket in place. Fill pot with water to a level at least 2 inches below the bottom of the basket, and the basket with the pre-soaked rice. Cover with any round lid that fits an inch or more over the rice level. The basket-and-pot set is available from Southeast Asian markets. Alternatively, a straw or wire mesh colander that fits inside a steamer pot works well as a substitute. Avoid steaming the rice on top of a piece of cloth lining a steamer rack as any moisture the cloth absorbs may turn the bottom layer of grains into mush rather than cooking them in whole grains.

    While the rice is steaming, prepare the coconut sauce by heating the coconut milk, sugar and salt together in a saucepan. Warm the milk until the mixture is well blended and smooth.

    Mix the cooked rice while it is hot out of the steamer with half the coconut sauce. Stir well with a spoon to coat all the grains evenly. The rice should be moist but not swimming with sauce. Add more of the sauce if needed, reserving the remainder for topping the rice before serving. Let sit for at least 10 minutes to allow the grains to absorb the sauce.

    When ready to serve, dish onto individual serving plates, dribble a small amount of reserved coconut sauce over each portion and arrange mango slices over the top. Serve warm or at room temperature.

    *My preferred brands of coconut milk because of their creamy and rich flavor are Mae Ploy and Chao Koh, both from Thailand, and Natural Value (from the United States). (See my favorite brands page for information on buying coconut milk.)


    Written by Kasma Loha-unchit, April 2009.