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Wat Mahatat in Nakhon Si Thammarat

Michael Babcock, Sunday, July 3rd, 2011

Thailand is predominantly a Buddhist country and throughout the country there are numerous temples – wat, in Thai. One of my favorite temples is Wat Mahatat in Nakhon Si Thammarat. This temple is considered one of the three most important temples in the south of Thailand, the others being in Chaiya and Yala. A morning visit here is part the itinerary for Kasma’s Kasma’s trips to southern Thailand.

View of Temple

View of chedi

Its full name is Wat Phra Mahatat Woramahawihaan, sometimes abbreviated to Wat Phra Boromathat. It is found a couple kilometers from the town center on Thanon Ratchadamnoen, the long street that runs the length of the town, and is easily reached by songthaew.

This is the biggest temple in the south of Thailand. The most recognizable feature is the nearly 80 meter high chedi (stupa), which is crowned by a spire made of solid gold and weighing several hundred kilograms. The main chedi is surrounded numerous smaller black and white chedis. To the right of the chedi there’s an entrance to a sanctuary. In the middle is a stairway leading up to a platform about half-way up the chedi; this stairway is open only some of the time. The stairway is flanked by demons, apparently guarding the way. At either end of the room there are walls with interesting bas-relief on the walls.

Buddha Statues

Buddha Statues

Off to the left as you head towards the central sanctuary is a wihaan or Buddha image sanctuary. In the shape of a square, it has Buddha images on the outside around the square; there’s also an inner walkway with more Buddha images.

After you’ve visited the temple, be sure to go to the market area at the far end of the temple – they have some interesting southern crafts and snacks.

Rather than spend more time on description, I’ve put together a slide show to show some of the beautiful images found here. Photographs were taken by both myself and Kasma.


Nakhon Si Thammarat – Wat Mahatat Slide Show

Click on “Play” below to begin a slideshow.
Clicking on a slide will take you to the next image.

You must have Javascript enabled to see the images.

View of Temple 1

Here's a view of the chedi, which is above the main sanctuary
and several other buildings housing Buddha images

View of the Temple 2

The chedi is in the right-hand corner in this view from the parking lot

Entrance to Chedi

The door at the end is the entrance to the chedi

Sign Towards Wihaan

Before reaching the entrance to the chedi at the end, turn
at the blue sign to enter the wihaan of Buddha statues

Thai Monks

In 2007 we came across these novice monks leaving the area by the chedi

Buddha Statue in Niche

There are numerous interesting details in the
buildings around the entrance to the chedi

Temple Roof

Don't forget to look up at the details around the roofs of the buildings

Temple Roof

A view of one of the temple roofs, with its golden nagas

Temple Guardian 2

This demon guards the staircase leading up to the chedi

Temple Guardian 1

This demon and dragon guard the other side of the staircase

Temple Bas-relief

In the sala leading up to the chedi there are two
walls with golden bas-relief (to the right, here)

Temple Detail

Here's a detail of the bas-relief

Buddha in Niche

This is the Buddha statue at the end of one side with the bas-relief

Close-up of Buddha Statue

Here's a close-up of the same statue

Temple Bells

When the staircase is open you can go to a walkway around
the chedi, about halfway up - these bells are taken from there

Walkway with Buddha Statues

This is the outer walkway in the wihaan off the entrance to
the chedi - it is lined with Buddha statues

More Walkway

Here's another view of the outer walkway, which has a mysterious, quiet feel to it

Inner Walkway

There's also an inner walkway, also lined with Buddha statues

Temple Gong

At one end of this walkway is this huge gong - if you rub the
center in just the right way it makes a deep, resonant sound

Buddha Statue 1

One of the Buddha statues on the outer walkway

Buddha Head

Cose-up of another Buddha statue in the outer walkway

Temple Feature

This pillar is found at one of the corners of the outer walkway -
it shows the Buddha at the time of his enlightenment

Earth Mother Goddess

Close-up of the statue of the Earth Mother Goddess, witnessing
the Buddha's enlightenment, from the previous image

Temple Painting

Paintings such is this one adorn some pillars in the outer walkway

Buddha Head 2

Close-up of one of the Buddha statues - painted gold and black

Buddha Head 2 Earlier

Here's the same statue in 2004 - before it was painted (see previous slide) -
like everything else, the Buddha statues are in a constant state of change

Buddha Image

Here's one of the Buddha statues found on the inner
walkway, where they often are standing in a red alcove

Buddha Close-up

Close-up of a Buddha in the inner walkway

Buddha Close-up 2

Here's the same statue 4 years earlier - before restoration

Little Demon

Close-up (of a demon) shows some of the detail on the inner walkway alcoves

Buddha from the Back

An outer walkway Buddha photographed from the inner walkway

Elephant

The inner walkway has several of these elephants - the entire inner wall
has been wrapped by orange fabric, the same color worn by the monks

Another Buddha

An outer walkway Buddha in a very different style

Buddha Statues

One last image showing several of the Buddha statues

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Wednesday Photos of Wat Mahatat

Previous Blogs on Nakhon Si Thammarat

  • Krua Nakhon Restaurant
  • Nakhon Si Thammarat Municipal Market
  • Written by Michael Babcock, July 2011

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Municipal Market

    Michael Babcock, Monday, May 23rd, 2011

    We always enjoy visiting the Southern Thailand city of Nakhon Si Thammarat and, when we visit, we always visit the Municipal Market, the talaat sod (fresh market). It’s a morning market and we make a point of getting there early for a bit of breakfast before we browse the market.

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Market Sign

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Market Sign

    (Note: scroll down for a beautiful slide show of images from the market.)

    This market has been in this location at least since 1992, when we began coming to Nakhon Si Thammarat. In December of last year (2010), right around the time of the King’s Birthday, the market completed a renovation and re-opened in this location after being relocated for 8 months. In addition to getting spruced up, the market became appreciably larger. Like many Thai markets, it’s an enclosed market with built-in stands for the vendors. It’s now probably as large or larger than the morning market in Krabi. (See our blog Krabi Morning Market.)

    Vegetable Aisle

    Vegetable aisle

    This market is primarily a morning market and to see everything, you’ll want to get there early: certainly by 8:00 a.m. in the morning, and earlier if you can. It’s different from a separate Sunday market, which we’ll feature in a future blog. This is definitely a local market. You won’t see a lot of fahrang (the Thai word for Caucasian) here, especially inside the market where most of the wares are targeted for cooks.

    Nakhon Si Thammarat has one very long street running from east to west – Ratchadamnoen Road. The municipal market is found on Thanon Pak Nakhon (I’ve also seen it spelled as “Pagnagon Road” – thanon means road) – which intersects Ratchadamnoen Road – leading away from the Train Station. If you have turned off the main road the market is on your left, about a half block past the Nakhon Garden Inn.

    Thai Snacks

    Thai snacks

    Unlike the market at Krabi, all of the sit-down stalls with hot food are on the outside of the market and it does not have as many eating stands as at Krabi.

    Once you enter the market, it’s organized by section. On the side closest to Thanon Pak Nakhan there are sweet snacks (khanom wan) and flowers. Other aisles (or parts of aisles) feature fruits, vegetables, meats, seafood, prepared pastes, and so on.

    The vendors here are very friendly and mostly enjoy having their pictures taken. It’s always more fun to walk through a market when you’re greeted by lots of smiles.


    I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves. Click on “Play” below to begin a slideshow. You can also click on any picture individually and either scroll through the images using “Next” and “Prev” or start the slideshow at any image. Captions accompany the images. Clicking on a slide will also take you to the next image.


    Nahkon Si Thammarat Municipal Market – Slide Show

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Market Sign

    Sign for the Nakhon Si Thammarat Municipal Market, seen from Pak Nakhon Road

    Outside Nakhon Si Thammarat Market

    Approaching the market from Ratchadamnoen Road, it’s on the left.

    Prepared Food Aisle

    Prepared food is found on the outermost aisle of the market.

    Flower Aisle

    Just inside the door, the flower & snack Aisle

    Some Flowers

    Some of the beautiful flowers for sale.

    Snack Vendor

    A snack vendor, also found on the aisle closest to the street.

    Thai Snacks

    Some traditional Thai kanom (snacks).

    Fruit Vendor

    Fruit vendor with a combination tropical fruit plus (imported, usually from Washington state, U.S.A.) apples.

    Noodle Vendor

    At one end of the market there are a number of vendors selling kanom jeen - fermented rice noodles.

    Curry Paste Vendor

    One of the highlights of the market for me are all the vendors selling pre-made chilli and curry pastes.

    Curry Paste Close-up

    Here's a close-up of some delicious looking curry paste.

    Shrimp Paste Vendor

    There's also many vendors selling luscious mounds of kapi - shrimp paste.

    Shrimp Paste Vendor

    Another view of this vendor, who sells curry pastes, chilli pastes and kapi (shrimp paste)

    Vegetable Aisle

    Here's a view of the vegetable aisles.

    Vegetable Vendor

    Almost a one-stop vegetable vendor.

    Another Vegetable Vendor

    This vendor has several kinds of eggplants, winged beans (in the middle), cucumbers and more.

    Galanga

    Here's some very fresh and young galanga (kah) with bright orange turmeric in the back.

    Winged Beans

    These winged beans (tua poo, in Thai) are a bit more frilly than I've seen before.

    Pork Vendor

    This woman is a pork vendor - meat vendors tend to specialize in one kind of meat (pork, beef, chicken, duck)

    Pork Vendor 2

    Here's another view of our pork vendor: not quite the way pork is sold in the United States!

    Pork Innards

    Every part of the pig is sold: here we see small and large intestines.

    Pig Head

    Did I mention that they sell every part of the pig?

    Pork Belly

    Traditionally, the Thai people are not afraid of a little fat, such as we see in this delicious-looking pork belly.

    Duck & Chicken Vendors

    These two Muslim women are selling ducks and chickens. In Thailand it's quite common to see them with both feet and head still attached.

    Another Market Aisle

    You get quite used to walking through the aisles at the market.

    Thai Children

    We usually come across some cute Thai children on our market walks. Hard to resist.

    Seafood Vendors

    These three seafood vendors were quite keen to have their pictures taken.

    Motorcycle Delivery

    Need a large amount of an item delivered in the market? Use a motorcycle!

    Fish Vendor

    This fish vendor is scaling, cleaning and fileting a large fish.

    Crabs

    Very fresh seafood of all kinds, such as the crab, are found here.

    Fresh Snapper

    So many varieties of fresh fish, such as these snappers. Whole fish are preferred.

    Fish Vendor 2

    This man was very proud of the large fish he had for sale.

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    Written by Michael Babcock, May 2011

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Temple (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, December 29th, 2010

    Wat Mahatat

    Temple Grounds

    Wat Mahatat Temple grounds

    Here’s a picture of the main chedi (stupa) at Wat Mahatat in Nakhon si Thamarrat, in the South of Thailand. It’s one of my favorite temples in Thailand. As you head toward the chedi, to the left is an entrance to a building with a large number of Buddha statues around a courtyard – well worth a look.

    Here are two pictures of Buddha statues found at this temple:


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.


    Note: This will be our last Wednesday Photo post for awhile. We may start them up again sometime in the spring.

    Turmeric – Kamin (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, May 5th, 2010

    Gorgeous Turmeric Root

    Turmeric Root

    Turmeric root

    Most people know turmeric in the dried form as found in Indian curry pastes. In the south of Thailand turmeric is used fresh in such dishes as Turmeric-Fried Catfish and also used dried in dishes such as Muslim Yellow Rice with Chicken and Roasted Spices (Kao Moek Gkai). It also appears raw on some of the vegetable platters that are routinely found on restaurant tables in the South. (You can see such a platter, albeit without turmeric, on our blog about Krua Nakhon Restaurant.)

    I like this picture (taken in the Sunday market at Nakhon Si Thammarat) because it shows a beautiful root that lets you see exactly how the root grows.

    You can read more about this root on Kasma’s page on turmeric.


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week
    highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.

    (As a side note, our first Wednesday photo was posted an May 5, 2009 so this is the start of our second year of Wednesday photos.)

    Another Nakhon Buddha (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, March 31st, 2010

    Buddha Statue in Nakhon Si Thammarat

    Buddha Statue in Nakhon Si Thammarat

    Buddha Statue in Nakhon Si Thammarat

    The Dhamma isn’t far away, it’s right with us. The Dhamma isn’t about the angels on high or anything like that. It’s simply about us, about what we are doing right now. Observe yourself. Sometimes there is happiness, sometimes suffering, sometimes comfort, sometimes pain, sometimes love, sometimes hate. This is Dhamma, do you see? You have to read your experiences.

    – Ajahn Chah, in Food for the Heart, p. 368.

    From: Food for the Heart: The Collected Teachings of Ajahn Chah. Ajahn Chah. Wisdom Publications, Somerville, MA, 2002.


    See also:


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Buddha (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

    Buddha Statue in Nakhon Si Thammarat

    Buddha Statue, Nakhon Si Thammarat

    Buddha Statue, Nakhon Si Thammarat

    What did it mean that he [Kondanya, an early disciple of the Buddha] had seen the Dharma? He had attained knowledge and vision that all things arise in the beginning, change in the middle, and pass away in the end. “All things” means all phenomena of body and mind, and these characteristics apply to all of them without exception.

    – Ajahn Chah, in Being Dharma, p. 155.

    From: Being Dharma: The Essence of the Buddha’s Teachings. Ajahn Chah, Translated by Paul Breiter. Shambala, Boston & London, 2001.


    See also:


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.