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Wat Mahatat in Nakhon Si Thammarat

Michael Babcock, Sunday, July 3rd, 2011

Thailand is predominantly a Buddhist country and throughout the country there are numerous temples – wat, in Thai. One of my favorite temples is Wat Mahatat in Nakhon Si Thammarat. This temple is considered one of the three most important temples in the south of Thailand, the others being in Chaiya and Yala. A morning visit here is part the itinerary for Kasma’s Kasma’s trips to southern Thailand.

View of Temple

View of chedi

Its full name is Wat Phra Mahatat Woramahawihaan, sometimes abbreviated to Wat Phra Boromathat. It is found a couple kilometers from the town center on Thanon Ratchadamnoen, the long street that runs the length of the town, and is easily reached by songthaew.

This is the biggest temple in the south of Thailand. The most recognizable feature is the nearly 80 meter high chedi (stupa), which is crowned by a spire made of solid gold and weighing several hundred kilograms. The main chedi is surrounded numerous smaller black and white chedis. To the right of the chedi there’s an entrance to a sanctuary. In the middle is a stairway leading up to a platform about half-way up the chedi; this stairway is open only some of the time. The stairway is flanked by demons, apparently guarding the way. At either end of the room there are walls with interesting bas-relief on the walls.

Buddha Statues

Buddha Statues

Off to the left as you head towards the central sanctuary is a wihaan or Buddha image sanctuary. In the shape of a square, it has Buddha images on the outside around the square; there’s also an inner walkway with more Buddha images.

After you’ve visited the temple, be sure to go to the market area at the far end of the temple – they have some interesting southern crafts and snacks.

Rather than spend more time on description, I’ve put together a slide show to show some of the beautiful images found here. Photographs were taken by both myself and Kasma.


Nakhon Si Thammarat – Wat Mahatat Slide Show

Click on “Play” below to begin a slideshow.
Clicking on a slide will take you to the next image.

You must have Javascript enabled to see the images.

View of Temple 1

Here's a view of the chedi, which is above the main sanctuary
and several other buildings housing Buddha images

View of the Temple 2

The chedi is in the right-hand corner in this view from the parking lot

Entrance to Chedi

The door at the end is the entrance to the chedi

Sign Towards Wihaan

Before reaching the entrance to the chedi at the end, turn
at the blue sign to enter the wihaan of Buddha statues

Thai Monks

In 2007 we came across these novice monks leaving the area by the chedi

Buddha Statue in Niche

There are numerous interesting details in the
buildings around the entrance to the chedi

Temple Roof

Don't forget to look up at the details around the roofs of the buildings

Temple Roof

A view of one of the temple roofs, with its golden nagas

Temple Guardian 2

This demon guards the staircase leading up to the chedi

Temple Guardian 1

This demon and dragon guard the other side of the staircase

Temple Bas-relief

In the sala leading up to the chedi there are two
walls with golden bas-relief (to the right, here)

Temple Detail

Here's a detail of the bas-relief

Buddha in Niche

This is the Buddha statue at the end of one side with the bas-relief

Close-up of Buddha Statue

Here's a close-up of the same statue

Temple Bells

When the staircase is open you can go to a walkway around
the chedi, about halfway up - these bells are taken from there

Walkway with Buddha Statues

This is the outer walkway in the wihaan off the entrance to
the chedi - it is lined with Buddha statues

More Walkway

Here's another view of the outer walkway, which has a mysterious, quiet feel to it

Inner Walkway

There's also an inner walkway, also lined with Buddha statues

Temple Gong

At one end of this walkway is this huge gong - if you rub the
center in just the right way it makes a deep, resonant sound

Buddha Statue 1

One of the Buddha statues on the outer walkway

Buddha Head

Cose-up of another Buddha statue in the outer walkway

Temple Feature

This pillar is found at one of the corners of the outer walkway -
it shows the Buddha at the time of his enlightenment

Earth Mother Goddess

Close-up of the statue of the Earth Mother Goddess, witnessing
the Buddha's enlightenment, from the previous image

Temple Painting

Paintings such is this one adorn some pillars in the outer walkway

Buddha Head 2

Close-up of one of the Buddha statues - painted gold and black

Buddha Head 2 Earlier

Here's the same statue in 2004 - before it was painted (see previous slide) -
like everything else, the Buddha statues are in a constant state of change

Buddha Image

Here's one of the Buddha statues found on the inner
walkway, where they often are standing in a red alcove

Buddha Close-up

Close-up of a Buddha in the inner walkway

Buddha Close-up 2

Here's the same statue 4 years earlier - before restoration

Little Demon

Close-up (of a demon) shows some of the detail on the inner walkway alcoves

Buddha from the Back

An outer walkway Buddha photographed from the inner walkway

Elephant

The inner walkway has several of these elephants - the entire inner wall
has been wrapped by orange fabric, the same color worn by the monks

Another Buddha

An outer walkway Buddha in a very different style

Buddha Statues

One last image showing several of the Buddha statues

View of Temple 1 thumbnail
View of Temple 2 thumbnail
Entrance to Chedi thumbnail
Sign Towards Wihaan thumbnail
Thai Monks thumbnail
Buddha Statue in Niche thumbnail
Temple Roof thumbnail
Temple Roof thumbnail
Temple Guardian 2 thumbnail
Temple Guardian 1 thumbnail
Temple Bas-relief thumbnail
Temple Detail thumbnail
Buddha in Niche thumbnail
Close-up of Buddha Statue thumbnail
Temple Bells thumbnail
Walkway with Buddha Statues thumbnail
More Walkway thumbnail
Inner Walkway thumbnail
Temple Gong thumbnail
Buddha Statue 1 thumbnail
Buddha Head thumbnail
Temple Feature thumbnail
Earth Mother Goddess thumbnail
Temple Painting thumbnail
Buddha Head 2 thumbnail
Buddha Head 2 Earlier thumbnail
Buddha Image thumbnail
Buddha Close-up thumbnail
Buddha Close-up 2 thumbnail
Little Demon thumbnail
Buddha from the Back thumbnail
Elephant thumbnail
Another Buddha thumbnail
Buddha Statues thumbnail

Wednesday Photos of Wat Mahatat

Previous Blogs on Nakhon Si Thammarat

  • Krua Nakhon Restaurant
  • Nakhon Si Thammarat Municipal Market
  • Written by Michael Babcock, July 2011

    Nakhon Si Thammarat Buddha (Wednesday Photo)

    Michael Babcock, Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

    Buddha Statue in Nakhon Si Thammarat

    Buddha Statue, Nakhon Si Thammarat

    Buddha Statue, Nakhon Si Thammarat

    What did it mean that he [Kondanya, an early disciple of the Buddha] had seen the Dharma? He had attained knowledge and vision that all things arise in the beginning, change in the middle, and pass away in the end. “All things” means all phenomena of body and mind, and these characteristics apply to all of them without exception.

    – Ajahn Chah, in Being Dharma, p. 155.

    From: Being Dharma: The Essence of the Buddha’s Teachings. Ajahn Chah, Translated by Paul Breiter. Shambala, Boston & London, 2001.


    See also:


    The Wednesday Photo is a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.