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Takua Pa Food Treats

Sunday, February 7th, 2010

Click pictures to see a larger version.

Fried Chicken Vendor

Fried Chicken Vendor

Many of my fondest memories of Thailand are food-related. This should not be a surprise given Thailand’s reputation as an open-air food market. Kasma’s trips to Thailand have a heavy food emphasis, from stopping at markets whenever possible to sampling local food specialties wherever we go. Years ago Kasma used to pick up Thai travel magazines to get ideas for her trips. Each article would spend at least some time pointing out where the best food was and often there was an article devoted to a particular regional specialty. The most recent Wednesday Photo was on one of these stops – Ranong Buns.

Crispy-fried chicken

Crispy-fried chicken

Kasma’s Southern Thailand trip always starts off by snorkeling at Mu Koh Surin National Park and then continues further South on the coastal highway 4. One of my favorite stops on the whole trip is the small town of Takua Pa. I try to eat a very light breakfast that day because I know what awaits us when we reach there later in the morning.

Crispy-fried shrimp treat

Crispy-fried shrimp treat

First stop is the local morning market. As you drive down the coastal highway from the North, the market (actually called talad sohd, or “fresh Market”) is to the right of the road, right behind the bus station. where I can never refrain from eating two delicious treats. The first is Southern-Style Crispy Fried Chicken (Southern Thai, that is). I’ll have to content myself with adding a picture of this delectable treat because there is no way to describe how delicious it is, with it’s very crispy, lightly salted outer skin and succulent meat inside. The other dish is also crispy fried, in this case small, delicious shrimp with a local green of some sort, breaded together and fried up. Yummy. I seldom see it done as well elsewhere. The market is also a good place to stock up on fruit – there are several vendors with beautiful produce and such fruit as rambutan, sala and mangoes.

Sign for roti restaurant

Sign for roti restaurant

Cook flipping a roti

Cook flipping a roti

The market, however, is merely an appetizer for the next stop, which is at a small family-owned restaurant that specializes in roti, the Thai Muslim version of roti, that is. Southern Thailand is a good place to find roti and we take full advantage of this when we travel there.

As you travel down highway 4 from the North, when you reach Takua Pa, keep a sharp sign out the left hand side for the sign here – it’s for the roti restaurant.  It is just past a traffic light (two doors down) at Thanon Wattana. In addition to roti they have another one of my favorites, Kao Moek Gkai, what Kasma calls (and teaches) as Muslim Yellow Rice with Chicken and Roasted Spices. It’s delicious chicken served over rice that has been cooked with turmeric (hence the yellow color) and various other spices, such as cinnamon, cardamon and cloves) roughly in the style of an Italian Risotto.

Beef curry and roti

Beef curry and roti

Like most roti restaurants in the south, it is owned and operated by cheerful Muslims. We’ve been visiting here for many years and they always greet us with big smiles and words of welcome. After we eat, Kasma functions as unofficial family photographer and takes many individual and group pictures, to be dropped off on our next visit. Perhaps the best thing about Thailand remains the friendly people.

The main event, here, is the roti. Be warned: it’s a breakfast food and can sell out by mid-morning. We order it in at least three different forms: plain roti to be eaten with (very delicious) beef curry, stuffed roti  (roti mataba), and sweet roti, both plain roti sprinkled with sugar and condensed milk and banana-stuffed roti. Sometimes we’ll also get egg roti. They also have Thai tea and coffee, to accompany the meal.

Stuffed roti (Mataba)

Stuffed roti (Mataba)

The roti here is especially good – crispy and delicious. It’s always fun to watch roti being made, as they cook flips out the rotis and then fries it to a golden, crispy perfection.


Like to try your hand at making roti or Muslim yellow rice? Check out Kasma’s recipes:

Muslim yellow rice with chicken

Muslim yellow rice with chicken

Lampang Noodle Shop

Thursday, January 7th, 2010
Noodle Shop Sign

Noodle Shop Sign

Front of Noodle Shop

Front of Noodle Shop

Our last blog entry was Kasma’s entry on Pad Thai noodles so I thought I’d post an entry on one of my favorite stops that Kasma makes on two of her trips to Thailand. Its a noodle shop called, in Thai, Raan Kao Soi, which translates as Kao Soi (Northern-style curried noodles) Shop. today, actually, is the day Kasma will be taking her 19-day trip there to eat. I’m jealous!

The shop is found on the main road in between the beautiful wooden Lanna temple, Wat Phra That Lampang Luang, and the town of Lampang itself. Look for the sign (it’s the first image in the blog, to the upper left).

Dining area in back

Kasma in dining area in back

These noodles are already well-covered on our website. There’s:

Kasma stops at the shop on her two trips that visit Northern Thailand. It’s typical of most noodle shops in that they specialize in one type of noodle, in this case the curried noodles of Northern Thailand. You can order with beef, chicken or pork.

Noodles coming to the table

Noodles coming to the table

When you come in, you’ll see where they assemble the noodles at the front of the shop. It’s kind of fun to watch how they do it: it’s a very speedy operation! The best place to eat is in the back of the shop, outside, with a nice view of the river.

There are many things that I like about kao soi. First, the curry sauce tastes divine. Second, it’s loaded with different textures, from the crunchy fried noodles to the fresh shallots pickled cabbage that you add yourself. Finally, there’s the addition of roasted chilli oil, which adds a divine, spicy flavor and gives the dish a delightful kick that convinces you that there is something in red chillies that truly does get the endorphins flowing!

It’s also a fun food to eat, participatory. You get to add your own vegetables and chilli oil and mix together. Do be careful adding the fiery, hot chilli oil – although it’s very delicious the noodles start out with a fair amount of heat; one at least one occasion I regretted the addition of so much extra spice!

Noodles (left) with additions

Noodles (left) with additions

Noodles, mixed, ready to eat

Noodles, mixed, ready to eat

The cook, happy you enjoyed your meal

Noodle shop cook

Noodle shop cook

Black Olive Rice (Wednesday Photo)

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

Welcome to The Wednesday Photo – a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.

Black Olive Rice at My Choice Restaurant

Black olive rice at My Choice

Black olive rice at My Choice Restaurant in Bangkok

Perhaps our favorite restaurant in Bangkok is My Choice on Sukhumvit Soi 36 in Bangkok. The menu is loaded with delicious dishes brilliantly prepared with ultra-fresh ingredients. There are so many great dishes that usually when we go we order several to be eaten with rice. See Michael’s Article on My Choice for pictures of many of our other favorite dishes.

This picture shows a “one-dish meal” rice dish at My Choice, Salted Black Olive Fried Rice; on their menu it is called Kao Ohb Nahm Liap. The main ingredient is a Chinese salted black olive, which is mixed with shrimp, dried shrimp, green mango, Thai chillies and ground pork. It’s a marvelous dish, full of several different types of flavors and anchored by the black olive.

It’s a marvelous dish and I usually order it when I eat at My Choice by myself. They serve it already mixed, as in the picture; in Kasma’s classes she teaches it as a composed salad that is mixed by each person prior to eating.

Here’s my attempt at rendering the name of the dish Thai script.

kaoohbnahmliab

I’ve also circled the menu item on the My Choice Menu.


You may also enjoy checking out these links.

Noodle Shop Sign (Wednesday Photo)

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

Welcome to The Wednesday Photo – a new picture each week highlighting something of interest in Thailand. Click on the picture to see a larger version.

Noodle Soup, No Noodles

Noodle Soup Sign

Noodle Soup Sign

Traveling in Thailand, it’s a real advantage to be able to read Thai, particularly at restaurants. When I was teaching myself how to read, I got a menu from one of our favorite restaurants – My Choice, in Bangkok – and learned how to read all the dishes. If nothing else, I could order food.

This sign is a good example of why. The second item down is “soup from a noodle shop without noodle.” In essence, noodle soup without the noodles. In Thai it would be called gao lao and is a perfectly good option – broth and the other items, just no noodles.

Solar Squid in Pranburi

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009
Squid drying on a rack

Squid drying on a rack

One of the best parts about traveling around Thailand with Kasma is that she has found some of the best restaurants you can imagine. My first trip to Thailand was in 1992 and one of the most memorable meals in a trip full of memorable meals was in a little restaurant in the town of Pranburi along the Gulf Coast of Thailand.

Look for this sign

Look for this sign

I always think of Pranburi as “Squid town” because of the presence everywhere of squid and cuttlefish that are laying out on the racks to dry.

The restaurant is called Rahn Ahahn Sunni or, Sunni’s Restaurant. To find it, go to Pranburi from the main highway, go to the coastline, and look for the Pandorea Hotel; the restaurant is right across the street. The address for the hotel is 444/4 Moo 2, T.Paknampran, A.Pranburi, Prachubkirikhan 77220, Thailand.

Seats with a sea view

Seats with a sea view

If you go, be prepared to order in Thai – if nothing else you can order the dishes here for a great meal.

The reason we eat at the restaurant is the extremely fresh seafood, prepared in numerous delectable recipes. It is directly adjacent to the sea and from your tables you can watch the waves go in and out. There’s often a very nice breeze going through the space that keeps you cool as you eat the spicy, delicious seafood.

Solar Squid

Solar Squid

By far my favorite dish at this restaurant it’s what we call Solar Squid; In Thai it’s called Bplah Meuk Daad Diow, which literally means “squid in the sun for a moment.” Actually, the squid is dried in the sun for about half a day, giving it a unique texture and flavor, and is then stir-fried in oil. It’s a seemingly very simple dish but I suspect that there is a lot more to it. One year when we came to town, our favorite restaurant was closed. Well, Kasma still had a group of people to feed so we went to another restaurant down the coast and were delighted to find out that they also had solar squid on the menu. Unfortunately, it was nowhere near as good. When Kasma has asked Sunni, who is the chef, what her secret is, Sunni just laughs and tells Kasma that she’ll just have to keep coming back to get the dish here.

Grilled Shrimp

Grilled Shrimp

Baby Clam Salad

Baby Clam Salad

There are several other delicious dishes that Kasma nearly always orders. One of these is simple grilled prawns that are served with three different dipping sauces. Another one is a fiery hot “yum” salad made from baby clams; this dish is called Yum Gkehsawn Hoi in Thai. The dressing is sour and spicy-hot – you can see from all the chillies in the picture that this dish is not for the faint-of-tongue!

Basil Crab

Basil Crab

Three Flavored Fried Fish

Three Flavored Fried Fish

Another “must-have” dish is the Basil Crab – Neua Bpoo Pad Gkaprao. The Thai people will cook almost anything with basil – this dish is made with crab meat removed from the shell, lots of delicious holy basil (gkaprao), and (of course) lots of spicy, hot prik kee noo chillies.

Mixed vegetable Stir-fri

Mixed vegetable Stir-fry

One of the best looking dishes is the “Three-flavored Grouper” – Bplah Gkow Sahm Roht. This dish is not as spicy as the others and is topped by a sauce that is salty, sweet and sour (the three flavors).

Kasma also orders a plate of Stir-fried Mixed Vegetables – Pad Pak Ruam. It’s a non-spicy dish that serves to balance some of the other hot dishes.

So if you’re driving from Bangkok down to the south of Thailand, be sure to make a luncheon detour over to Sunni’s restaurant in Pranburi. You’ll get some of the freshest, most delicious seafood of your life and a dish (Solar Squid) that you may never have again.

Kasma & Sunni

Kasma & Sunni

Two more great southern Thailand restaurants are Ruen Mai in Krabi and Krua Nakhon in Nakhon Si Thammarat. If you’re looking for a good restaurant in Bangkok, check out some of our Favorite Bangkok restaurants.

Krua Nakhon Restaurant

Saturday, July 18th, 2009
Krua Nakhon Restaurant

Krua Nakhon Restaurant

Over the years we’ve visited the southern city of Nakhon Si Thammarat many times. We go there on Kasma’s trip of southern Thailand and it’s also one of the places where we like to travel on our own. I like it because of the way the city feels – the people are friendly and it’s a colorful, interesting place. In addition to the main temple, Wat Phra Mahatat, with it’s soaring main chedi (stupa) and interesting Buddha statues, there’s a lively Sunday open-air market, a fun night market and places to purchase southern crafts such as yin lipao baskets and shadow puppets. Kasma’s driver, Sun, lives down here and we also get to visit his family compound, where he lives with 6 of his other 7 siblings.

Vegetable Platter on each table

Vegetable Platter on each table

We always stay at the Nakhon Garden Inn, a reasonably priced, comfortable hotel, which even has free wi-fi. In the morning we invariably walk a few blocks over to the courtyard containing Bovorn Bazaar on Ratchadamnoen Road at the Thawang Intersection, a few blocks from the Train station; there we breakfast at  the restaurant Krua Nakhon, meaning Nakhon Kitchen. The word nakhon means city, and cities such as Nakhon Si Thammarat are often referred to simply as Nakhon.

The restaurant is open daily from 6:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., so it’s a breakfast and lunch place. It is an attractive sitting area, open on three sides and all times. On the wall behind the counter is a collection of antique coconut graters. Food is served cafeteria-style – you go up to the counter and pick out what looks good to you, order, and the friendly staff will bring your selection to the table.

Southern-Style Rice Salad

Southern-Style Rice Salad

Close by is a place to get coffee or tea – Hao Coffee. You can order it at Krua Nakhon and they’ll go place the order for you; or you can go to Hao Coffee yourself and see what looks best. Once you order, they’ll deliver it over to Krua Nakhon for you. We recommend the “Blue Mountain” coffee. In Thailand, Blue Mountain refers to a type of roast or blend, and not coffee from Jamaica. It’s quite tasty.

When you sit down at the table there will either be a large platter of fresh vegetables and pickles, or the staff will bring one over to you. This is something that you see throughout Southern Thailand. They are eaten as an accompaniment to the meal. They can be used to help cut the heat of a particularly spicy dish.

Kanom Jeen with Nahmyah Sauce

Kanom Jeen with Nahmyah Sauce

Krua Nakhon specializes, not surprisingly for a southern Thai restaurant, in southern Thai dishes. One of my favorite dishes there is the Rice Salad, the Kao Yam Bpak Dtai.  When Kasma teaches this dish, in her evening Advanced Series Set E (class 2), she teaches it as Southern-Style Rice Salad with Assorted Vegetables and Aromatic Herbs, Toasted Coconut and Boodoo Dressing.

It’s an attractive dish, a bit like a composed salad. The rice is in the middle surrounded various other ingredients, such as lemon grass, dried shrimp, shredded coconut, bean sprouts, shredded greens and a dish of boodoo sauce). You mix everything together, squeeze some lime on top and enjoy, eating it along with the scrumptious fresh vegetable and pickle platter that is on every table.

You can also get kanom jeen, fermented rice noodles served with the topping of your choice. These noodles are the only noodles that originated in Thailand; the other types are  Chinese in origin. Kanom jeen are served all over Thailand but in the south there’s a couple toppings that are very popular. The topping shown in the picture above is  spicy fish Nahmyah curry sauce. It’s also good with green curry on top.

Coconut Dessert

Coconut Dessert

In addition, there are always a number of other dishes. You can choose to have them served over rice or over the kanom jeen noodles.

Be sure to get a dessert. Check the counter for what they have that day. They usually have several options of different items in coconut milk, such as the picture here. These coconut-based dishes are especially good if you’ve just eaten something very spicy – the coconut will cool down your taste buds.

There’s some more information and pictures about Krua Nakhon on my personal website. Another great southern Thailand restaurant is Ruen Mai in Krabi.